How to plant an apricot: planting methods and all important nuances

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The apricot was often called the Armenian apple, although the center of its origin has not been reliably established. In Armenia, it has been cultivated since ancient times and is considered one of the national symbols. The lifespan of an apricot tree in a warm climate reaches 100 years, of which 30–40 years it bears fruit abundantly and pleases with its tasty, aromatic fruits. Now varieties of apricot have been developed for other regions. In each of them, the tree can give a decent harvest, but correct agricultural technology is important for this. The first and one of the most important moments is planting a seedling.

Planting dates for apricot

Apricots are best planted in early spring, always with dormant buds. Planting with open buds can kill the plant.

Apricot seedlings can be planted in spring before buds awaken

You should take into account the climate of your region. In the southern regions, planting is possible at the end of March, in central Russia - in mid-April. The main condition is that the air warms up above zero temperature, not only during the daytime, but also at night.

If planted earlier, the plant may die from recurrent frosts. Late planting will negatively affect the survival rate of the seedling due to the increased activity of the sun.

Benefits of planting apricot in spring:

  • the possibility of forming a powerful root system before autumn frosts and, as a result, a good wintering of the plant;
  • timely elimination of negative factors: diseases, pests, drought, which improves the development of the seedling and increases its immunity;
  • the possibility of preparing the pit in advance for planting. Preparing the pit in the fall eliminates the risk of burying the root collar due to good soil subsidence during the winter.

The main disadvantage of spring planting is the small time interval between spring frosts and bud awakening. It is not always possible to catch this moment and land on time.

And yet, most gardeners prefer spring planting, given the thermophilicity of the culture.

However, there is a possibility of planting apricots in autumn, mainly in southern regions with warm winters and a long transition period with rather high temperatures in the autumn months.

Benefits of autumn planting:

  • a rich selection of planting material, affordable prices, the ability to assess the condition of the roots;
  • a large amount of necessary moisture after planting - nature itself provides the seedling, it does not need increased attention and care.

If the plant is planted on time, it manages to take root before frost and starts growing early in spring and develops faster.

Disadvantages of planting in the fall:

  • in winter, young plants can suffer from natural factors: ice, strong wind, snowfall, severe frosts;
  • seedlings are damaged by rodents in winter.

Experts do not advise planting apricot varieties that do not have good winter hardiness in the fall.

How to prepare for boarding

In order for the apricot to bear fruit, it is necessary to plant 2-3 seedlings of different varieties, since most varieties require cross-pollination. If this is not possible, you need to plant self-fertile varieties, for example, Red-cheeked.

Choosing a landing site

Apricot loves light and warmth, does not tolerate drafts and shading. Under suitable conditions, the tree grows large, with a spreading crown. It should not be planted in the lowlands because of the accumulation of cold air and the possibility of stagnant water, which can lead to the death of the plant. If possible, it is better to plant it on a hill, a hillside.

In favorable conditions, you can get a good harvest of apricots

Of the cardinal points, western, southwestern and northwestern are preferred. The northern part of the site, fenced off from the winds, is also a favorable place for planting.

Soil requirements

The soil for apricot should be light, loamy or sandy loam, with a sufficient amount of black soil and minerals.

The acidity of the soil is neutral or slightly acidic. Fertilizers with a phosphorus content of 0.10–0.12 kg per 1 m² are added to clay soil.

Neighbors on the site

When choosing a planting site, it must be borne in mind that the apricot does not like neighborhoods with other trees, especially when it comes to:

  • cherries,
  • apple trees,
  • peach,
  • walnut,
  • cherries,
  • pears,
  • raspberries,
  • currants.

When planting an apricot next to a plum, a distance of at least 4 m is required so that they do not oppress each other.

Planting scheme and preparation of the landing pit

Apricot trees are planted in a checkerboard pattern with a distance between trees and between rows of at least 3-4 m, since the tree is very spreading.

It is better to prepare a pit for planting an apricot in the fall or at least a week before planting. The dimensions of the pit are 70 × 70 × 70 cm.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. A drainage cushion of crushed stone, gravel or small pieces of brick is poured onto the bottom. It is needed to protect the tree from excess moisture.

    A drainage pad is needed to protect the roots of the apricot seedling from moisture stagnation

  2. On top of the drainage, soil is laid in the composition:
    • the top layer of the earth - 1.5 parts;
    • leaf humus - 5 parts;
    • mullein - 1 part;
    • wood ash - 60 g;
    • superphosphate - 50 g.
  3. All this is mixed well and covered with garden soil on top to exclude direct contact with the roots of the seedling.

    After laying the fertile layer, the pit under the apricot is covered with previously removed garden soil

As a soil, you can use a mixture of sand, peat and earth in equal parts. The main thing for apricot is the looseness of the soil, not its composition.

How to plant an apricot so that it bears fruit successfully

When planting in both spring and autumn, a certain sequence must be followed in order to get a good harvest:

  1. Soak the roots of the seedling in water a day before planting.

    Root soaking is only necessary for open-rooted apricot seedlings

  2. Check the condition of the roots and cut off the damaged ones.
  3. Dip the roots of the seedling in a mash made of clay with manure and dry them a little. Heteroauxin can be added to the talker to improve survival.
  4. Make a bump of earth in the center of the hole.
  5. Place the seedling in the center and spread the roots well, while the root collar should be above the level of the hole.

    When planting an apricot seedling, it is important to spread the roots well; for this, a mound from the ground is first poured into the hole

  6. Cover the roots with earth, do not cover the neck of the trunk with earth. Gently trample the ground around the seedling. Put the foot with the toe to the trunk, and trample it with the heel.
  7. Make a watering circle along the edges of the pit, protecting the neck with a mound.
  8. Water the seedling with plenty of water along the irrigation circle, avoiding water getting under the trunk.

    The apricot seedling must be watered in a watering circle so that water does not get on the root collar

  9. Tie the seedling to the peg in two places.

After planting, the seedling should stand level and sit tightly in the ground.

Video: planting an apricot seedling

Storing a seedling in winter

What if the seedling could not be planted in the fall? There are different ways to preserve it until spring.

In the cellar

In a cellar or garage, apricot seedlings can be stored at temperatures from 0 to +10 ºC. The roots are moistened, placed in a container with sawdust, sand or peat and placed in a cool place. The container needs to be moistened about once a week.

When storing apricot seedlings in a cellar or garage, it is worth signing each variety


This method is used in areas with heavy snow (snow thickness must be at least 15 cm). In order for the seedlings to be well preserved, that is, they do not freeze and do not snot, they do this:

  1. Before snowing, they are kept in water for 5 hours and the leaves are removed.
  2. Then they choose the most snow-covered area in the garden, where there is less sun, and prepare a hole, leaving a 15–20 cm thick cushion of snow.
  3. Apricot seedlings packed in burlap or agrofibre are placed in a prepared pit. You can also arrange them vertically, thus saving space.

    Apricot seedlings are placed horizontally on a snow cushion

  4. From above, horizontally located plants are covered with a layer of snow 10-15 cm thick and then with a layer of sawdust or wood shavings of the same thickness. Vertically standing apricot seedlings are covered with snow for two-thirds.

    Vertically placed apricot seedlings should be covered with snow for a maximum of two-thirds

In a snow hole, seedlings are stored until spring in conditions that are comfortable for them.

Digging in the ground

The seedling is dripped with its tip to the south in an inclined position. For this:

  1. A ditch is dug from west to east with a gentle south side and a vertical north wall.

    A ditch for digging seedlings is dug in the direction from west to east

  2. Before digging in, all the leaves are cut off from the seedlings for better wintering.
  3. Then the seedlings are coated with liquid clay and sprinkled with earth. Plants must be attached to plates with the name of the variety, written with a marker on plastic or aluminum.
  4. Plants are laid in a ditch with their crowns to the south at a short distance from each other. This arrangement reduces exposure to cold northerly winds and prevents sunburn.

    Apricot seedlings are laid in a ditch with an inclination of the crowns to the south

  5. Apricots are covered with earth 20 cm above the root collar.
  6. The earth is tamped with a shovel.
  7. Behind the first row, the second is laid in the same direction.

With the onset of frost on the soil, the prikopochny groove with seedlings must be covered with dry soil or its mixture with sawdust - completely, with the formation of a mound.

The groove with seedlings is covered with dry soil or its mixture with sawdust until a mound forms with the onset of frost on the soil

Branches can be covered with thorny rose hips or blackberries to protect them from rodents and frost. In winter, it is advisable to cover the hill with snow. Snowing and burying require protection from rodents also with the use of pesticides. The baits are laid out in tin cans in an inclined position so that in the spring unused poison can be removed and it does not fall into the ground.

Video: dropping an apricot seedling

Unconventional methods of planting apricots

Planting options for apricot can vary depending on soil, climate and other factors.

On the sand

If the soil on the site is sandy, and you need to plant an apricot, do not worry.

The sand is a light soil, has good air permeability and is quite suitable for growing apricots. But there are also significant disadvantages. Such soil does not retain water well, nutrients are washed out and become inaccessible to the plant.

Sandy soil is quite suitable for planting apricots, as it is light and water-permeable

In order to improve the structure of the soil and ensure water retention, clay is poured onto the bottom of the pit in a layer of 10–12 cm. The pit is filled with soil with a high humus content, which consists of the following elements:

  • sand - 1 part;
  • sod land - 2 parts;
  • compost - 2 parts.

On sandy soils, apricot needs more frequent watering during fruit ripening and regular application of organic fertilizers, excluding fresh manure and chicken droppings.

If you need to plant an apricot seedling in loose sand, then proceed as follows:

  1. At first, a hole is dug much more than is necessary to place the roots: it is dug 1.5-2 m wide, and 1 m deep.
  2. Clay is poured at the bottom of the pit, as indicated above, then it is covered with imported fertile soil, thus cultivating the soil. If the brought soil turns out to be heavy, clayey, it is mixed 35–40% with the sand dug out of the pit, and peat is added in the amount of 10–15%.

    When planting an apricot on sandy soil, clay and peat are added to the pit

  3. In the center of the prepared pit, then an ordinary planting pit is made.

When the trees grow up, in the 4th-5th year, outside the pit, they dig ditches up to 70 cm in width and depth, and fill them with the same fertile imported soil, expanding the cultivated layer for further development of roots.

According to Zhelezov's method

Valery Konstantinovich Zhelezov, an outstanding gardener from Sayanogorsk, has been successfully growing apricots for a long time in his Siberia. The plant should be planted as early as possible, immediately after the end of the frost, so that it has time to mature before winter.

Zhelezov advises planting an apricot in this way:

  1. Put the seedling for 1 night in cold rain or melt water in a dark cold room.
  2. Make a planting site in the garden - a gentle hill with a diameter of up to 2 m and a height of 20 to 50 cm (for snowy areas). The hill allows early warming of the soil in the spring. This will prevent the root collar and trunk from rotting.

    A gentle hill when planting a seedling makes it possible to warm up the soil early in spring

  3. Make a hole in the center according to the size of the straightened roots. Fertilizers do not need to be applied.
  4. Cut the seedling to at least half the crown.

    Pruning an apricot seedling will allow it not to spend a lot of energy on maintaining a large amount of green mass in the first year of life.

  5. Place the seedling in the hole so that the root collar is strictly on the border with the ground, and cover with soil.
  6. Spread the fertilizer over the top at a distance of half a meter from the stem of the seedling.
  7. Close the seedling with a 5-liter bottle with a cropped bottom for 1 month. This will allow him to fully mature in the short Siberian summer.

    Covering an apricot seedling with a plastic bottle will allow it to fully mature in a short Siberian summer

  8. Sodding with low-growing grass or mowed grass, leaving it in place after mowing.

Planting two apricot seedlings in one pit

Apricots, like other fruit trees, can be planted in nests - 2 or more plants in one hole, regardless of the region. This type of landing has many advantages:

  • plants suffer less from frost and sunburn;
  • more snow accumulates around them in winter, which improves wintering and growth conditions. In spring, it is imperative to remove snow from the trunks;
  • when one of the plants dies as a result of unfavorable factors, the second can be preserved and begins to develop better due to the preservation of the roots of the deceased as a result of their accretion.
  • nesting allows you to reduce the area occupied by plants and increase yields due to mutual pollination.

The planting hole for two apricot seedlings must have a diameter of at least 100 cm, the distance between the seedlings when planting is 30-40 cm. Pit preparation and planting are carried out according to the standard, as well as for one seedling.

It is better to do nesting plantings on elevations (hills, high ridges, etc.) for better ventilation and exclusion of damping out of the trunk, which leads to the death of the plant.

Features of planting apricots in different regions

In each region, zoned apricot varieties are used for planting. The timing of planting this culture also differs:

  • in the Volga region (for example, in the Volgograd region), apricots have been planted since the end of March;
  • in central Russia and the Moscow region, planting is carried out no earlier than the last days of April;
  • in the Urals and Siberia, it is possible to plant apricots not earlier than the end of April and only northern varieties. It is recommended to plant in high places. When the frost is returned, the seedlings are covered with non-woven material.

    In Siberia, it is recommended to plant apricots in high places

In any region, it is imperative to remove snow from the trunk in the spring. At the time of fruit setting, watering is necessary if there is no rain.

Varieties for Siberia are frost-resistant:

  • Cupid is a frost-resistant table variety with an average ripening period, high-yielding, obtained at the Far Eastern Research Institute of Agriculture in 1950-1960. Included in the State Register for the Far East Region in 1979;
  • Seraphim - received at the Far-Eastern Research Institute of Agriculture G.T. Kazmin.Fruits are tasty, early ripening, high yield. Doesn't like high air humidity;
  • East Siberian - obtained in the Republic of Khakassia by I.L. Baikalov in 1981, included in the State Register in 2002 for the East Siberian region. A very early variety with large fruits, insufficiently resistant to damping;
  • Primorsky (Red-cheeked) - obtained in the Far-Eastern Research Institute of Agriculture, the ripening period is medium, the fruits are large, sweet. Winter hardy and fruitful.

Apricot transplant

Transplanting an apricot has its own characteristics, which you need to know about so that everything goes well and the tree takes root.

There is an opinion that an apricot, transplanted three times, turns from a wild into a cultivated species. This is not true. It will remain wild until it is vaccinated, but its lifespan will decrease with each transplant. Transplanting negatively affects the state of the fruit tree - the roots are damaged, the margin of safety decreases.

You can transplant the plant in spring and autumn:

  • spring apricot transplant is carried out during the dormant state, before the buds swell:
    • the advantage is sufficient soil moisture and warmth, which ensures quick survival in a new place;
    • minus - the need for frequent watering and the risk for the plant to be unprepared for the winter cold;
  • an autumn transplant may be better for the rooting of the plant. The main thing is that it has time to take root before frost. You should not delay the transplant in the fall.

It is highly undesirable to transplant an apricot many times; ideally, only one transplant is possible if necessary. The transplanted tree should not be more than 6–7 years old.

The technology for transplanting an adult apricot is as follows:

  1. In the fall, a planting pit is prepared with a diameter almost twice the size of the tree crown. The pit is prepared in the usual way with the device of a drainage cushion and the introduction of soil, mixed thoroughly with fertilizers.

    The pit for transplanting an apricot should be twice the diameter of the crown

  2. 3 hours before transplanting, the apricot is watered abundantly.
  3. They dig in the tree along the diameter of the crown to a depth of 80 cm.
  4. With a few shovels or pitchforks, lift a lump with a tree and roots and move it onto the prepared burlap.

    Burlap is needed so that the earth does not crumble from the roots

  5. The lump is wrapped in burlap and tied up to preserve its integrity.
  6. They put a tree with a lump of earth in a prepared hole and fall asleep, slightly crushing the earth.
  7. Make a roller around the trunk for watering.
  8. The crown is cut a little to make it easier for the roots to cope with the load.

The aroma of apricot fruits, its excellent taste and benefits are of constant interest to amateur gardeners in all corners of the earth. It is grown even in Siberia, and not without success. After all, most varieties of apricot are frost-resistant, they can withstand frosts down to –30 ° C, and in hot regions they are not afraid of drought.

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Planting an apricot

Before planting an apricot in the country, you should study the requirements of the tree for the place of cultivation. This should be a sunny and level area located on the south or southwest side of the garden. It is important that the apricot is closed from drafts and illuminated by the sun during daylight hours. You cannot plant an apricot in a lowland where coolness and moisture are collected, as they are detrimental to the plant.

Do not plant apricots in an area with high groundwater levels.- the apricot tree does not tolerate waterlogging and excessive moisture. His roots begin to rot, which subsequently leads to the death of the plant.

Soil for apricot

The soil suitable for growing apricots must be loose and breathable. On heavy soil, apricot will not grow fully. The acidity of the soil for apricot needs neutral or slightly alkaline.

The soil should be based on several components: clay, sand and peat.They are a must if you want to grow apricots and get a decent harvest.

All components must be mixed well so that there are no lumps and seals left.

Planting pits for apricot are prepared in six months. Accordingly, if the apricot is planted in the spring, the holes are dug in the fall, and vice versa.

Distance between apricots when planting

Apricots are not planted one tree at a time. The plant can be both self-pollinated and not self-pollinated, in the second case, pollinators are needed nearby.

Usually, for the best harvest, the apricot is planted in two or three trees.

The ideal distance between apricot trees is at least four meters.The crown of the apricot tree is spreading and grows quickly after pruning, so the branches of neighboring apricots should not mix and interfere with each other. The apricot crown must be exposed to sunlight and ventilated to make the tree feel comfortable. Therefore, you should follow the planting rules and leave a sufficient distance between the trees.

The pit for planting apricots should also be spacious. Its size should be determined by a meter in diameter. The roots of the tree in the first years of life must develop freely in order to lay the foundation for fruiting and further growth.

You need to plant trees on a small hill made in a hole, and leave the root collar above the ground.

With proper care, apricot trees can grow up to a hundred years old. The tree begins to bear fruit after the third year of life. The period of active ripening of apricot berries lasts up to fifty years.

How to plant honeysuckle in spring - choose the right place and prepare the planting pit

In order to properly plant honeysuckle seedlings in the spring, you must first buy several varieties of seedlings, choose the most suitable place in the garden for planting them and place them at the right distance, planting them in properly prepared planting holes.

What and how many seedlings to buy

Since honeysuckle begins to bear fruit already at the age of 3-4, it is logical to buy exactly 2-year-old seedlings, and not one, but necessarily several.

The fact is that honeysuckle is a self-fertile plant that requires cross-pollination, in other words, pollinated by the wind (more precisely, other pollinating varieties), therefore, if you want to get good yields, you must plant several plants of different varieties of the same flowering period not far from each other (at least - 2, and even better 3-5 varieties).

Interesting! The same way maize is planted and grown.

Planting site and suitable soil

Some summer residents do not know where it is better to plant honeysuckle - in the shade or in the sun. Many quite rightly (especially residents of cool regions with a short warm period) believe that it is optimal for berry bushes to find the most open area with a lot of sunlight.

But! It is worth knowing that honeysuckle is originally a forest plant, which means it can feel comfortable in a slightly shaded place (with diffused sunlight), so to speak, under the canopy (crowns) of trees. But not in deep shadow.

Advice! Most honeysuckle lovers unanimously argue that if the planting site is well chosen, then in the future you will not need to take any special care or fight pests and diseases.

The soil

It is believed that honeysuckle loves loose and slightly acidic soil (6.5 - 7 pH, and according to some sources - up to 7.5 pH, this is by no means blueberries that love acidic soil), i.e. the same sandy loam soil or light black soil.

If the soil is excessively clayey, then the water will stagnate, the root collar will rot and the seedling will simply disappear. On the contrary, if the soil is too sandy, then the seedling may dry out from a lack of moisture, which will evaporate very quickly after watering.

At what distance to plant bushes

As mentioned earlier, you need to plant several plants on the site at once, so it is very important to know at what distance they should be placed from each other. Typically honeysuckle bushes planted at a distance of 1.5-2 meters from each other, and between the rows - 2-3 m. Such a distance between the bushes is necessary due to the fact that growing, adult bushes fill a fairly large space.

To what depth to plant (what should be the landing pit)

Landing pit for a honeysuckle seedling should be prepared taking into account the further development of its root system. As a rule, optimal sizes are 40-50 cm deep and the same 40-50 cm wide (in diameter).

Advice! If you are planting a seedling in a container, then make a hole just 2-3 times the size of the container.

How and what to fill the planting hole

Next, the planting hole for planting honeysuckle should be filled with fertile soil, namely apply organic and mineral fertilizers:

Important! Mineral fertilizers must be thoroughly mixed with earth and humus without fail, and then the resulting mixture should be poured into the pit.

  • the top fertile soil layer (which you have left after digging a hole)
  • compost or humus (6-12 kg)
  • forest (coniferous) litter (after all, this is still a forest plant)
  • superphosphate (80-100 grams) or 300-400 grams of bone meal
  • potassium sulfate or potassium salt (30-40 grams) or 300-400 grams of wood ash.

Or you can simply pour in about 100 grams of diammophoska, of course, if you use mineral fertilizers.

Direct landing

Step-by-step instructions for planting a honeysuckle seedling in the spring:

  • Fill the planting hole halfway with the nutrient mixture.
  • Make a small mound in the center of the planting hole.

If you are planting a seedling with a closed root system (in a container), then you do not need to make any mounds, but simply plant it in a prepared planting hole without disturbing the earthen coma.

  • Place the seedling in the center of the mound and spread the roots down to the sides (the roots should never bend and stick up!).
  • Cover with earth (top fertile soil layer + forest litter), while lifting the seedling so that the earth wakes up between the roots, leaving no empty cavities.
  • Compact the soil.

Note! The root collar of the seedling should be buried 5-8 cm into the soil. However, given that the earth is likely to settle, it is better to initially deepen it by 2-5 cm.

  • Next, you need to make a hole (roller) along the diameter (perimeter) of the trunk circle with a height of 5-10 cm.
  • And then pour it abundantly, pouring out about 1-2 buckets of water (pour it out gradually - wait for it to be absorbed and add more).
  • As a result, level the roller, loosen the soil in the near-stem circle and mulch it with peat, humus or compost.

Mulch will help to avoid drying out the roots and excessive evaporation of moisture.

Video: how to plant honeysuckle correctly

Growing an apricot from a stone in the open field: planting in the fall and care

To grow an apricot from a stone, before (in summer) you will need to collect the seeds of the fallen and the most delicious fruits, put them on a plate, dry them slightly, for example in the kitchen or in the room (but not the sun), and then put them in the refrigerator, so that later in October -November, plant in the ground.

Video: planting apricot pits in the fall

Landing place

If you immediately want to choose the best site for growing apricots, then you need to choose a quiet southern place (open and sunny), protected from the north wind, for example, by a fence or some kind of outbuildings.

Landing in the ground

Step-by-step instructions for planting apricot seeds in open ground in the fall:

  1. Choose a suitable spot in the garden.
  2. Prepare a trench or planting holes, before digging up the ground and adding humus or peat to it, as well as sand (it is better to do this in advance, while the ground is not frozen yet).
  3. The planting depth of apricot pits is 5-6 centimeters.
  4. The distance between the seedlings in the trench can be maintained somewhere in the 15-20 centimeters.
  5. Sprinkle with earth. Just in case, you can mulch with pine needles (coniferous litter).
  6. Before or after some time, it is imperative to take the necessary measures to protect against garden pests, since mice and ants really like to feast on bones.
  7. And in early spring, it is imperative to cover them with something so that the rooks do not nibble.

Note! Read detailed articles on our website on how to deal with ants and mice.

Video: growing apricots from a stone: planting seedlings in open ground - part 1

Care for apricot seedlings after planting seeds

As a rule, next year, in the spring, the first shoots will appear from the ground, and in May their height can reach 10-15 centimeters. Although it often happens that they may not ascend in the first year, but only in the second or third.

Further care consists in regular watering as the soil dries up.

Important! If in the first year the leaf plates are narrow and serrated, rather rough, then most likely you will not get good and large apricots in the future. However, there is nothing wrong with this, you can use this seedling as a rootstock, that is, you can successfully to plant a cultivar on it.

The biggest problem that gardeners face is that a lot of these seedlings (very young) freeze out in the very first winter. However, unfortunately, you will hardly be able to help here, although you can try to make a winter shelter (for example, cover with cut 5 liter plastic bottles). But in any case, natural selection must occur, which means that only the strongest seedlings will survive.

Video: growing apricots from the stone: seedlings in spring - part 2

Transplanting a young seedling to a new location

Advice! In general, it is recommended to plant an apricot with a stone immediately to a permanent place due to the peculiarities of its roots (a very powerful taproot grows), since each transplant delays the tree's entry into fruiting.

But if you planted many seeds at once in one place at a fairly close distance, then you will definitely need a transplant, although you can leave only the strongest seedlings, and remove the rest.

The transplant, as a rule, should be done in the spring of next year, or you can wait until autumn.

Advice! In general, the transplant takes place according to the standard scheme, but after it, the crown should be cut in half (by 50%), otherwise the seedling will not survive, since the plant will need to direct all its forces towards rooting.

In the next video, the author shares the results of transplanting apricots planted with seeds.

Video: growing apricots from stone: transplanted seedlings 2 years after planting - part 3

Watch the video: 살구키우기, grow apricot from seed for 40 days, time-lapse for 20 days

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